At the crossroads of Europe, Africa, and the Orient, Morocco hosts and preserves assorted cultures, making it one of the most contrasted countries around the globe. If you are looking for a travel destination that gives you a taste of everything, I would most certainly put Morocco on the top of your bucket list. It is a destination that no traveller should miss for sure even if you experience just once. From beautiful coastal towns and beaches through the towering Atlas Mountains to the vast Sahara Desert, the breath taking landscapes and multiple rich cultures combine to offer you the most unique experience.
This time I am revisiting my favourite place. My darling husband decided to take me away for Valentines and asked where I would like to go and of course I chose Marrakech. This will be my 22nd visit, so, he asked why ? and my response was “I can just picture myself tucking into a delicious Tagine in one of my many visited restaurants in Marrakech, after a day of strolling through the Medina and souks, shopping of course, then stopping to take a glass of mint tea, that is what I would love to do” and he said OK your wish will be granted. This time he chose the Riad, flights everything and I never researched a thing, which made a pleasant change as my trips to Marrakech have always been business and I have to work hard before I go. I did take over and insist on contacting my driver I always use when I am in Marrakech and his details are at the bottom of this post.
We stayed at Dar Housnia Located in the neighbourhood of Kâat Benahid, a good location as the Maison de la Photographie is within walking distance as is the Ali ben Youssef medersa, the Marrakech museum and the souks. It’s a 10-minute walk from the Djemaa el-Fna and 20 minutes from the palace museums in the southern part of the medina, personally I think this is a perfect location as you have the best of both worlds, I love the hustle and bustle and enjoy all my stays wherever I have stayed in Marrakech.
With its sun-baked pink patio tiles, carved white plasterwork and elegant lancet arches, this riad has an unmistakable Arabo-Andalucian feel. While true to the house’s heritage, the décor feels refreshingly modern with small, bright splashes of colour and interesting artworks and artefacts framed perfectly by the building’s elegant structure.
Owner, Eveline, has an impeccable design eye and you’ll find much to admire from the beautifully knotted silk curtain ties to impressive artworks, such as the fabulous paper kaftan by Isabelle de Borchgrave. In addition, Christophe Siméon’s clever structural design keeps public and private spaces separate with multiple staircases revealing a shaded first floor loggia, a secluded mezzanine pool, a self-contained, two-bedroom douiria (guesthouse) and two roof terraces, one with a pretty loggia with a most welcome misting system.
With a staff of six, the riad is unusually well serviced with day and night butlers, a manager and an efficient housekeeping and kitchen team. Staff are gentle, friendly and exhibit a high degree of professionalism, and can help guests arrange pretty much everything. There’s also a very helpful house folder, which provides inspiration for excursions, insider shopping trips and dining out. Aside from the wonderful, secluded mezzanine pool (one of the few riad pools not overlooked by diners!), there’s a small hammam and massage room, which can be booked in advance.
The four thoughtfully luxurious, air-conditioned suites and two-bedroom douiria (guesthouse) eschew glitzy frippery for subtle style and comfort: warm hand woven blankets for cold Marrakech nights, well-positioned bedside lights, complimentary babouches and plenty of well-placed sockets. Each room has an individual look and is beautifully decorated around a standout piece of art or antique, such as the 19th-century Koranic chest in the Sabaa suite or the sun-drenched oil paintings by Jacques Majorelle in the Mogador suite.
In addition, the Fez suite has a lovely private, outdoor salon in the first floor loggia and the douiria, with its two bedrooms, handsomely decorated Colonial-style living room and terrace lounge (with Berber tent), can be made entirely independent of the rest of the house.
A sunny breakfast of homemade yogurt, deliciously sweet fruit and home baked breads and eggs is served on the rooftop terraces, while dinners are served at linen-dressed tables in the patio or salon. Cordon Bleu trained chef Rachidia is one of the best in the medina serving Moroccan dishes such as hand-rolled couscous alongside French classics such as bouillabaisse, duck with apricot compote and seafood platters piled high with Oualidia oysters, spider crabs and shrimp. Don’t miss the delicious desserts especially the Belgian chocolate torte.
Suites from €140 (£126) in low season; and from €160 (£144) in high season; the two-bedroom douiria from €340 (£306) in low season; and from €390 (£350) in high season. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.
Taxis are available near the riad in Place Moqf.
Access for guests with disabilities?
Family-Friendly?
The main riad is a romantic bolthole for couples, but the two-bedroom guesthouse is a great self-contained space for families with older children. It comes with its own roof terrace and sitting room, which is supplied with CDs and DVDs.
Day One
The Medina is a tangle of alleyways holding hundreds of stalls it is impossible to not get lost it just fans out in every direction, but you will always get out. Traders lead donkeys pulling wagons filled with mountains of merchandise through the archways, and motorcycles zip around impossibly tight corners. At the heart of the Medina is Jemaa el-Fnaa, an enormous open square where you’ll find everything from fig sellers to snake charmers to monkey handlers who urge them to jump on your shoulder for a picture, I do confess this has always slightly unnerved me. It’s chaotic, with half a dozen different people shouting in multiple languages, from different directions. When you have had enough and need a break from the noise, look up; there are many eateries with top-floor patios (like laid-back Atay Café) where you can watch everything in peace while sipping strong coffee or a freshly squeezed juice.
Shopping here is more of a sport. Glance at an item for more than a second or two, and I can guarantee you will be offered a price. If you’re like me, the realization that you’re suddenly haggling will make you want to win the prize. Don’t worry. A good rule of thumb is to counter with 10 percent of the original price, then settle somewhere around 50 percent off the original price after more negotiations and under the breath words from the seller. Even if you overpay, you’ll go home with a great story to tell.
